I am grateful to God for keeping me alive, fit and fine during my travels.
I am thankful to Mother Nature for being kind and generous to me.
Thanks a ton to clouds for showing me all the colors, viz., downpours, hailstorms and snowfalls.
Thanks a million to the kitchen staff for providing sizzling hot and nutritious food to me.
Thanks to the cascading streams across boulders for letting me cross over you easily and adding a thrill to my trekking.
My heartfelt gratitude to the frozen river and waterfalls for adding the extra thrill and excitement to trekking expedition.
A big thanks to the rocky terrains, streams, boulders for making me realize that life is full of adventures and making me tougher.
Mother Nature, I am extremely grateful to you for making me sleep in your lap.
Thanks to the Himalayas for permitting me to enter in your home, for making me fell into your strong and beloved arms and giving me strength to rise. Thank a ton for showcasing snow covered peaks, beautiful moon rising in the dark skies showering grace and serenity. A big gratitude to Himalayas for providing an unforgettable life experience.
A special thanks to the Malana River for guarding and allowing me to sleep in the tents beside your river banks and murmuring the lovely melodious lullaby.
Thanks to YHAI for organizing Chanderkhani Pass trekking expedition and overflowing me with gratitude.
Day 6: Trek from Behali campsite to Waching, Distance – 7 km (approx) (9300 ft) (3 hrs)
River Malana meandering through the valleys
Photo Gratitude: Nisant Manepalli
It was an easy trek. The most marvelous experience about this trek was the glacier walk.
Glacier Walk
Photo Gratitude: Nisant Manepalli
We had lunch. There was also a canteen, where trekkers delved themselves on MAGGI (by that time, it was already banned). One maggi plate sold for Rs 60. It started drizzling.
Women working in the field
We started and trekking for a while, we reached our Waching camp. In evening, we had a picturesque sight of emerging moon above the mountains.
During night, I was sleeping in one of the opening corners of tent. To my horror, I felt someone stepping on my foot; I thought it to be a co-trekker. However, after a few seconds, I heard a growling. I inserted myself deeper into sleeping bag and covered my face completely. In morning, we discussed about the howling and growling sound and presumed it to be a dog, as none of us had seen it.
Day 7: Trek from Waching to Nagroni, Distance – 5 km (approx) (10,000 ft) (5 hrs)
In Waching, for breakfast, we were served delicious chola bhatura.
We were informed by our guide that it was a difficult trek but it turned out to be an easy trek. Reached a small tent, actually, Maggi Point, trekkers drooled over Maggi (containing Mica and Lead!!!). From here, we started trekking, thinking and discussing that it will take a long time to reach Nagroni Camp. However, we were amazed to see our tents. At first sight, we thought them to be tents of other trekking groups, but our Camp Leader was standing and welcoming us for our achievement. As soon as we entered the tents, it started raining cats and dogs. The view from our tents was awesome. We took out our cameras to take some picturesque views of the trees and mountains.
After it stopped raining, we were called up for roll call and briefings for the next day. Our tents were five to six feet above the ground and there were uneven mud steps which had become extremely slippery after rains. Most of the trekker were out of their tents and had assembled at a place from where all the tents and the trekkers coming out of the tents were visible. Trekkers came out, slipped and rose on their own.
Nagroni Camp Site
We were informed about present and next day schedule. We were also informed that that day’s dinner was going to be the best one. We were instructed to sleep early as the next day we had to wake up at 0200 hours in morning. We were also informed about the possible breathlessness symptoms which we could have when we reached higher altitudes. We were informed that there is an absence of trees 10000 feet above the sea level. Therefore, there would be lack of oxygen, the air will be thin. We were also told that the next day, we will ascend 1500 feet and descend 1000 feet in a single day. The Camp Leader asked us about our fitness and we assured him that we are fit and fine. The Camp Leader informed us that we were the most fortunate ones, as there was going to be a celebration at the Chanderkhani. It is believed that during full moon night, special herbs which are panacea, surge above the earth and are visible to only a few lucky people. He also told us that the sleeping bags were issued here; they are large in size, so first wrap yourself in the blanket and then slip into the sleeping bags. The idea was really helpful to me and kept me warm during the cold night. Then our camp leader introduced us to Trek Guide, this guide was different from all the guides, a very tough and a strict one. He gave the guidelines of dos’ and don’ts. He asked us to be punctual and behave in the best manner with everyone and the Mother Nature. The Dinner at Nagroni Camp Site was a delight: we were served with hot gulab jamuns….yummiieeee.
Day 4: Green Flag off Base camp to Malana Project by bus, then trek to Yosgo, Distance – 5 km (approx.) (9000 ft) (4 hrs)
Yes, the day had come when real trekking would commence. Today, it was a no exercise day. Yippee!!! We had a roll call around 0800 hours and were directed to take the packed lunch (chana and puris). Black Chickpeas are a rich source of iron and boosts the energy levels. Today was our flag off day. We were handed over a small packet consisting of peanut jaggery chikki, candies, and glucose biscuits. Outside the base camp, a bus was waiting for us. We boarded the bus, and took us to Malana Dam. We reached within one and a half hour. We were introduced to our trek guide. From here, the trek started. We walked, crossed a tunnel, and then entered Malana.
Entrance
Way to Malana Village
From here onwards, it was trekking over uneven trail with sharp edged rocks.
Rocky Trail paving the path to Yosgo
Nearby the entire trail, a waterfall was flowing besides us.
As we saw a waterfall, everyone started clicking pictures. We filled the water from waterfalls (avoid filling water from waterfalls, this source should be used only if your water bottles have emptied). We crossed the first wooden plank bridge.
Crossing the wooden log bridge over the waterfall
After reaching a plain place, near the waterfall, we were asked to have lunch. We took some rest and it started drizzling. We took a shelter beneath a large rock. After that, we started trekking. Sheep and goats were grazing all around the valley. After a short trek, we reached our first camp located in the midst of the great Himalayas. The camp leader greeted us with a warm handshake. After which we were introduced to the surroundings and the schedule at Yosgo Camp which included the timings of welcome drink, tea, soup, allocation of sleeping bags and blankets, next day breakfast and packed lunch and time of departure from Yosgo.
Yosgo Camp Site amidst the mountains
Day 5: Trek from Yosgo camp to Behali campsite via Malana village, Distance – 8 km (approx.) (8900 ft) (5 hours)
During this trek, I learnt that trek is never measured in kilometers, it is the terrain, the route, and the weather of the day which measures the toughness of the trek. The most significant fact, I learnt was that rains are the worst enemy of the trekker.
We had breakfast. Here, I learnt that it is not only trekking from one camp site to another, but it is also a trek to the breakfast and water point. We had a roll call and a group photograph with the camp leader and the kitchen staff. We were introduced to our trek guides who were from Malana and were cautioned on the issues of Malana village. If we touched their walls or took a photo of their temples, then we would be fined Rs 2500. People of Malana worship father of Parshu Ram Ji, Shri Jamdagni Ji. They have their own rules and a population of 5000 along with their amenities like own hospital, school. I think our Prime Minister should visit Malana and start a Swachh Bharat Abhiyan and take cognizance of the fact that although Malana is a heaven but realistically it is gradually converting into a dump yard by the tourists and the localities.
Ascending up the hill
From this juncture, we could clearly see our Yosgo tents.
Miles to go before I sleep
On entering Malana, we queued up and were asked to follow the protocol. Everyone followed the norms of not touching anything in Malana Village. After Malana, there was a small shop, where everything was sold above MRP (2-5 times more than MRP). People bought colas, chocolates etc. After that, we started trekking. It was pretty tough and mid-way it started drizzling. We crossed lots of small streams. From mere drizzling, it started raining heavily which left us drenched. The trail was narrow. On one side, it was mountain and other side, steep valley. It was tricky to trek on wet muddy trail. I was trekking nicely. However, at a point, I had to take a foot up, and slipped. It felt like Mother Earth had tightly hugged me and was refusing to detach me from her arms. A fellow trekker saw me lying flat on the muddy step, came running, shouted at me to lend my hand. I refused, as I was afraid that the fellow trekker in the process of pulling me would himself slip into the valley. Keeping faith I lent my hand, and was safely pulled up. I was ecstatic with joy and relief. I realized that helper was God sent Angel. This faith kept me in high spirits during the entire trek. Though, the trek was still strenuous as walking was tough in wet terrains, and I tripped at lots of places.
Somehow, I crossed the uneven narrow terrains and streams. It was a long trek, not coming to an end. I saw a tent; I sighed with relief, however, it was our lunch point. We had a sumptuous lunch. While crossing another stream with difficulty, I contemplated that my life is precious and I cannot risk it. The trek guide advised me to leave from Behali Camp to Seobagh base camp, and informed me that I could do so. After reaching the Behali Camp, located near Malana River (a small river made from melting glacier), five kilometers away from camp, I confessed my thoughts about quitting the trekking expedition. Here, the camp leader came as a great savior and motivated me to complete this trek. He asked me about my fitness. I was perfectly fit, however, a little dreaded due to the unforeseen events which took place during the day trek. Inspired by his and fellow co-trekker experiences, I decided to continue the trek.
The camp leader introduced us to nearby surroundings, Dhauladhar Ranges, Pin Parvati ranges, Parvati River flowing at the back of Pir Parvati Range, the Malana River. He alerted us not to touch the water as it was freezing cold. The ladies had to go through a dangerous trek in order to reach toilets. The toilets were facing Malana River, and mountains. Any mistake could be fatal. So we had to be extra cautious.
A frozen stream melting at different points. Photo Courtsey: Nisant ManepalliBehali Camp Site besides the Malana River
Seobagh Base Camp is located at the banks of River Beas.
After reaching Seobagh Base Camp, my first meet was with a YHAI volunteer, who welcomed me with a smile. After the registration, I was asked to go to Tent 3. I was welcomed by the Field Director, and had dinner.
Accommodation: Tents
Weather: Pleasant
Electricity: available 24 hours at base camp.
Mobile Charging: Yes. The YHAI has made a mobile charging hub and this is the most active area at the camp, as people keep hovering around this location.
Coverage: All networks are available at the base camp.
Food: Vegetarian and nutritious
Day 2: Acclimatization walk and Orientation
Next morning, we were instructed to wake up at 0500 hours in morning and queued. It was expected that trekker should wake up and be ready for acclimatization walk. We had a walk besides the banks of river Beas and then exercised for an hour, after which that we had breakfast. We had a call from our Co-Director for acclimatization walk. We were instructed to carry a rucksack filled with the blankets to get a feel of trekking along with weight. Acclimatization walk is through a nearby hill, where one can see homes of localities and their spinning skills. At the resting point, we had a brief introductory round.
A view of meandering Beas river and Kullu town from the acclimatization route
Subsequently we trekked to a nearby waterfall. While coming back, we came across lots of apple orchards, loaded with small ripe apples.
Waterfall during the acclimitization
Day 3: Rock Rappelling and Rock Climbing
After breakfast, we were taken to experience rock rappelling. The route to the destination where rock rappelling had to be done was very tricky and a narrow trail. (I think it was acclimatizing us as next few days are going to be tougher). The saying goes, “When the going gets tough, the tough get going.” It’s all about techniques. The instructor discussed various types of knots and mountain climbing techniques. The instructors were very motivating and helping.
Post lunch at base camp, we were taken back to the same destination where we were instructed about rock climbing. Now, while everyone had their apprised rock rappelling while few attempted rock climbing as it was more tricky and technical.
After coming back, we the trekkers were directed to deposit our extra luggage to the store rooms. Keep the luggage as light as possible in order to enjoy the beauty of Mother Nature and trekking.
After which few engaged themselves in playing volley ball and keeping an eagle eye to keep their electronic gadgets fully charged as there would be absence of electricity at the higher camp sites.
Ruchi Travelogues 