Chandrakhani Pass Trekking Expedition (Part 5)

For part 4, click here: Part 4

 

A few do’s and don’ts’s for the trip:

Do’s:

• A good quality poncho is must. You never know, when it starts raining in mountains. Or if you are carrying a rucksack with a rain cover, then even a good quality raincoat will suffice.
• Carry either a good pair of trekking shoes (I advise, Quechua) or two pairs of trekking shoes.
• Carry dry fruits, as during the trek from Nagroni to Naya Tapru, you need to have something to sustain yourself.
• Trim your nails properly, hands and toe nails both. Otherwise, one may end up in chipping of nails during rock climbing.
• Water is freezing cold at the above camps, therefore, carry sanitizer and dining sheets (which absorb the extra oil in the food served, and thus it is easy to clean the tiffin).
• Carry a warm fleece as well as a hooded winter jacket, which is light weight and very warm.
• Carry a hat; one realizes its importance when s/he will return to the Base Camp. Tanning of the skin is the signature of  high altitude trekking expedition.
• Carry polarized shades, otherwise one may suffer from a headache after the snow trek and snow slide. Most of the trekkers were asking for pain killer tablets after the snow trek and as they did not have any eatables since afternoon, they were not allowed to consume even a headache relieving tablet.
• Carry eight pairs of socks.
• Carry a pair of gloves. They protect your hands from bruises during rock climbing.
• Carry a warm woolen cap, muffler.
• Strictly follow the instructions of Camp Leaders and Trek Guides.
• Do remain in queue. If you want to go ahead then politely ask the trekker to give space.
• Do insert cotton in your ears while you sleep as it will restrict the entry of insects into your body.
• Tie the knots of the tents tightly during nights. When we were at Waching, during night, however, the knots of the tents were tied loosely or might had been not tied at all. Most of us observed the presence of an animal who stomped its feet on our sleeping bags and also growled. But none of us had enough guts to come out of the sleeping bag and see who it was. I inserted myself deep into the sleeping bag and tightly wrapped the blanket around me.
• While carrying the eatables along with you, make sure that you are protecting them from rats. (Keep camphor in the eatables). At Behali Camp Site, we were informed about insectivores’ rats which entered into the tents of ladies.
• Carry candies and Glucon D, which helps the trekker during the trek.
• Start practicing Yoga at least a month ahead of trekking expedition. Breathing exercises are of a great help at high altitude trekking.
• Be cautious while coming downhill from Naya Tapru to Naggar as it hurt my toe nails the most and eventually they got chipped off.  It took six months to grow back.

 

Don’ts:

• Do not litter wrappers. Carry the wrappers along with you and throw them in a pit at the next camp site, where they are burnt.

 

Weather is completely unpredictable at all the camp sites.

For part 1, click here: Part 1

For part 2, click here: Part 2

For part 3, click here: Part 3

For part 4, click here: Part 4

Chanderkhani Pass Trekking Expedition (Part 4)

For part 3, click here: Part 3

Day 8: Trek from Nagroni to Nauya Tapru via Chandrakhani pass, Distance – 14 km (approx) (9000 ft) (7 hrs, according to YHAI) (I took 11 hours to complete the trek)

 

We got up in morning at 0200 hours, deposited sleeping bags and blankets. Had breakfast at 0300 hours, and collected packed lunch which included mathri and frooti. We started our trek in morning at 0330 hours. All the trekkers carried headlamps or hand torches. We were trekking on rocky edged trails to narrow trails. Soon there was sunrise; the sun was behind the clouds. We witnessed all the colors of trekking. First, it rained, then hailstorm and ended with snowfall.

Snowfall during trek to Chanderkhani Pass

During snowfall, we were trekking on a narrow trail. The snow was small and stuck to my wind cheater. It was white and smooth. As it is clear in the above photograph that visibility reduced to minimal. Snow was directly coming in our direction. Instead of stopping, we kept on moving with a small and cautious steps.

As we kept on going up and up, the scenic views were awesome and the most beautiful ones.

 

 

A long trail

We tried our best to capture them in our cameras, however, after seeing the results, I felt that the God made eyes are the best in comparison to man-made camera lenses.

A breathtaking view of the mountains during the trekking

We trekked on rocky and uneven trails. They required the proper strategy to climb up to the next rock. The most amazingly killing experience for me was running crazily on the sloping valleys. I was actually dreaded by the thoughts of slipping down and breaking my bones, however, it turned out to be an amazing experience.

After trekking on rocky trail, the moment came for which all the trekker had waited…..walking on snow.

Walking on snowy edge is difficult as it becomes very slippery due to the melting snow. 

Photo Gratitude: Ravindra Chouhan Sir

Trekking on snow trail

Photo Gratitude: Ravindra Chouhan Sir

One of the co-trekkers faced breathlessness and oxygen had to be provided to her. Soon we reached the Chanderkhani Pass.

As I summit the Chandrakhani Pass, I realized that the following saying is completely true. “Somewhere between the bottom of the climb and the summit is the answer to the mystery why we climb.”    — Greg Child.

We had reached the highest altitude point (3660 meters) of our trek. Our prize was the highest point of our trekking expedition and the spectacular views of the valley. The views from this point were breathtaking and we were spellbound by the beauty of the great Himalayas. One needs to be there to feel it. It can be felt and not expressed. It provided a panoramic view of the ranges around the Chandrakhani Pass. The views were fabulous and I felt it worthwhile to be at Chandrakhani Pass. That is the beauty of any trekking expedition. Lots of local people were already there to worship their Gods.

Worship Place at Chandrakhani Pass

A view of Snow clad peaks from Chandrakhani Pass

We had our mathri and Frooti. From here, the next part of our trek started, which was partly on snow. The snow trek went on smoothly. We also had three snow slides. We were instructed about the manner in which one needs to slide and how to use elbows to apply brakes during the slide. The snow slides were the most enjoyable part of the entire trek. During the first snow slide, trekkers were apprehended, however, after the first slide, their confidence levels resumed to the higher levels and back-benchers came forward and were the first ones to slide. Third slide was a short one.

Snow Sliding

Photo Gratitude: Ravindra Chouhan Sir

After that, it was walking on snow-melt muddy water, here trekkers slipped, instead, of crying or getting upset, all of us were laughing and enjoying. The most significant part of this day’s trek was that trekkers had learnt to slip and most importantly rising on their own and laughing at the same time. We were on this trek in the first week of June, therefore, not much snow was there and whatever, was there had started melting. After snow trail, there was a rocky trail. It seemed that someone had put all those rocks intentionally to make it a trek route. It seemed to be river of unending rocks. After rocky trail, it was a broad trail, on which a Maggi point was located.  It started drizzling. Some moved ahead and some waited there, enjoying their Maggi. Post-snow sliding, I could not take any photographs as I wanted to enjoy the trekking and I found that my co-trekkers had also not indulged into photography due to battery discharge or their own indulgence into enjoying the trekking and scenic views at the fullest.

Everyone walks according to his or her own pace and momentum. The turning point of the trek or call it a funny point – A few went ahead of us. And suddenly, there were tents which were visible and looked like typical YHAI tents. We were trekking from morning 0330 hours and now it was already 1330 hours. Trekkers were delighted at the sight of the tents and ran towards those tents. When we saw them from above, my co-trekker told me that they are going to wrong tents and asked me to move ahead (The guide had informed my co-trekker about the trek route). I asked my co-trekker to re-confirm. He went ahead and confirmed that our tents were visible from his standing point. Next morning, we were informed that lots of our co-trekkers had taken a wrong route in over-excitement. We trekked, our actual camps were visible. It was raining. We entered into allotted tents. Our Camp Leader was a great person. He came to our tent, asked for a bottle, filled it with hot tomato soup and handed it over to us. We were moved to see such hospitality after a twelve hours strenuous trek. We were also allowed to have lunch inside the tents as all of us were exhausted and it was also raining outside.

By the end of this leg of trek, I realized that “Our greatest glory is not in never falling but in rising every time we fall”- by Confucius.

Day Nine (Final Day): Nauya Tapru to Naggar via Rumsu Village and transfer to Base Camp by Bus, Distance – 7 km (approx) (4 hrs).

 

The next day, our formal meet with our Camp Leader. He congratulated all of us for completing the most strenuous trek of the entire trekking expedition. He conferred the title, “WARRIORS” to us. Then he briefed us about the day’s trek, that it was all downhill.

Downhill to Naya Tapru

This trek was all downhill, and here we came across lots of trekkers from foreign countries as well as school children. They chose Naggar-Rumsuk-Naya-Tapru trek route to reach Chanderkhani Pass. The route was through dense forests. The route was an easy one, however, due to the downhill route; it hurt the calves and toes the most. We reached Rumsuk. There were lots of taxis waiting to take us to Naggar Bus Stand. They charged Rs 100 per person. After reaching to Naggar Museum, I was all tired. I requested Indian Curator at the museum to arrange a taxi for me. Even after his engagements at the inauguration of exhibition at Museum, he arranged for a taxi. I took taxi to reach to Naggar and from Naggar, a bus to reach to Seobagh Base Camp. The bus takes Rs 20 per person.

After reaching Base Camp, I finished formalities, took my luggage and was awarded a Certificate of successfully completing the trekking expedition to Chanderkhani Pass.

While penning down my experience, I am once again determined to go for next trekking expedition. “One can’t take a breath large enough to last a lifetime; one can’t eat a meal big enough so that one never needs to eat again. Similarly, I don’t think any climb can make you content never to climb again.”  – Woodrow Wilson Sayre

Have you summit Chandrakhani Pass? Which route did you take to summit? What were your experiences?

 

For part 5, click here: Part 5

 

For part 1, click here: Part 1

For part 2, click here: Part 2

For part 3, click here: Part 3

 

Chanderkhani Pass Trekking Expedition (Part 3)

For part 2, click here: Part 2

 

Day 6:  Trek from Behali campsite to Waching, Distance – 7 km (approx) (9300 ft) (3 hrs)

River Malana meandering through the valleys

Photo Gratitude: Nisant Manepalli

It was an easy trek. The most marvelous experience about this trek was the glacier walk.

 

Glacier Walk

Photo Gratitude: Nisant Manepalli

We had lunch. There was also a canteen, where trekkers delved themselves on MAGGI (by that time, it was already banned). One maggi plate sold for Rs 60. It started drizzling.

Women working in the field

We started and trekking for a while, we reached our Waching camp. In evening, we had a picturesque sight of emerging moon above the mountains.

During night, I was sleeping in one of the opening corners of tent. To my horror, I felt someone stepping on my foot; I thought it to be a co-trekker. However, after a few seconds, I heard a growling. I inserted myself deeper into sleeping bag and covered my face completely. In morning, we discussed about the howling and growling sound and presumed it to be a dog, as none of us had seen it.

Day 7: Trek from Waching to Nagroni, Distance – 5 km (approx) (10,000 ft) (5 hrs)

 In Waching, for breakfast, we were served delicious chola bhatura.

We were informed by our guide that it was a difficult trek but it turned out to be an easy trek. Reached a small tent, actually, Maggi Point, trekkers drooled over Maggi (containing Mica and Lead!!!). From here, we started trekking, thinking and discussing that it will take a long time to reach Nagroni Camp. However, we were amazed to see our tents. At first sight, we thought them to be tents of other trekking groups, but our Camp Leader was standing and welcoming us for our achievement. As soon as we entered the tents, it started raining cats and dogs. The view from our tents was awesome. We took out our cameras to take some picturesque views of the trees and mountains.

After it stopped raining, we were called up for roll call and briefings for the next day. Our tents were five to six feet above the ground and there were uneven mud steps which had become extremely slippery after rains. Most of the trekker were out of their tents and had assembled at a place from where all the tents and the trekkers coming out of the tents were visible. Trekkers came out, slipped and rose on their own.

Nagroni Camp Site

We were informed about present and next day schedule. We were also informed that that day’s dinner was going to be the best one. We were instructed to sleep early as the next day we had to wake up at 0200 hours in morning. We were also informed about the possible breathlessness symptoms which we could have when we reached higher altitudes. We were informed that there is an absence of trees 10000 feet above the sea level. Therefore, there would be lack of oxygen, the air will be thin. We were also told that the next day, we will ascend 1500 feet and descend 1000 feet in a single day. The Camp Leader asked us about our fitness and we assured him that we are fit and fine. The Camp Leader informed us that we were the most fortunate ones, as there was going to be a celebration at the Chanderkhani. It is believed that during full moon night, special herbs which are panacea, surge above the earth and are visible to only a few lucky people. He also told us that the sleeping bags were issued here; they are large in size, so first wrap yourself in the blanket and then slip into the sleeping bags. The idea was really helpful to me and kept me warm during the cold night. Then our camp leader introduced us to Trek Guide, this guide was different from all the guides, a very tough and a strict one. He gave the guidelines of dos’ and don’ts. He asked us to be punctual and behave in the best manner with everyone and the Mother Nature. The Dinner at Nagroni Camp Site was a delight: we were served with hot gulab jamuns….yummiieeee.

 

For part 4, click here: Part 4

 

For part 1, click here: Part 1

For part 2, click here: Part 2

For part 5, click here: Part 5

 

Chanderkhani Pass Trekking Expedition (Part 2)

For part 1, click here: Part 1

Day 4: Green Flag off Base camp to Malana Project by bus, then trek to Yosgo, Distance – 5 km (approx.) (9000 ft) (4 hrs)

 Yes, the day had come when real trekking would commence. Today, it was a no exercise day. Yippee!!! We had a roll call around 0800 hours and were directed to take the packed lunch (chana and puris). Black Chickpeas are a rich source of iron and boosts the energy levels. Today was our flag off day. We were handed over a small packet consisting of peanut jaggery chikki, candies, and glucose biscuits. Outside the base camp, a bus was waiting for us. We boarded the bus, and took us to Malana Dam. We reached within one and a half hour. We were introduced to our trek guide. From here, the trek started. We walked, crossed a tunnel, and then entered Malana.

Entrance

Way to Malana Village

From here onwards, it was trekking over uneven trail with sharp edged rocks.

Rocky Trail paving the path to Yosgo

Nearby the entire trail, a waterfall was flowing besides us.

As we saw a waterfall, everyone started clicking pictures. We filled the water from waterfalls (avoid filling water from waterfalls, this source should be used only if your water bottles have emptied). We crossed the first wooden plank bridge.

Crossing the wooden log bridge over the waterfall

After reaching a plain place, near the waterfall, we were asked to have lunch. We took some rest and it started drizzling. We took a shelter beneath a large rock. After that, we started trekking. Sheep and goats were grazing all around the valley. After a short trek, we reached our first camp located in the midst of the great Himalayas. The camp leader greeted us with a warm handshake. After which we were introduced to the surroundings and the schedule at Yosgo Camp which included the timings of welcome drink, tea, soup, allocation of sleeping bags and blankets, next day breakfast and packed lunch and time of departure from Yosgo.

Yosgo Camp Site amidst the mountains

 Day 5: Trek from Yosgo camp to Behali campsite via Malana village, Distance – 8 km (approx.) (8900 ft) (5 hours)

 During this trek, I learnt that trek is never measured in kilometers, it is the terrain, the route, and the weather of the day which measures the toughness of the trek. The most significant fact, I learnt was that rains are the worst enemy of the trekker.

We had breakfast. Here, I learnt that it is not only trekking from one camp site to another, but it is also a trek to the breakfast and water point. We had a roll call and a group photograph with the camp leader and the kitchen staff. We were introduced to our trek guides who were from Malana and were cautioned on the issues of Malana village. If we touched their walls or took a photo of their temples, then we would be fined Rs 2500. People of Malana worship father of Parshu Ram Ji, Shri Jamdagni Ji. They have their own rules and a population of 5000 along with their amenities like own hospital, school. I think our Prime Minister should visit Malana and start a Swachh Bharat Abhiyan and take cognizance of the fact that although Malana is a heaven but realistically it is gradually converting into a dump yard by the tourists and the localities.

Ascending up the hill

From this juncture, we could clearly see our Yosgo tents.

Miles to go before I sleep

On entering Malana, we queued up and were asked to follow the protocol. Everyone followed the norms of not touching anything in Malana Village. After Malana, there was a small shop, where everything was  sold above MRP (2-5 times more than MRP). People bought colas, chocolates etc. After that, we started trekking. It was pretty tough and mid-way it started drizzling. We crossed lots of small streams. From mere drizzling, it started raining heavily which left us drenched. The trail was narrow. On one side, it was mountain and other side, steep valley. It was tricky to trek on wet muddy trail. I was trekking nicely. However, at a point, I had to take a foot up, and slipped. It felt like Mother Earth had tightly hugged me and was refusing to detach me from her arms. A fellow trekker saw me lying flat on the muddy step, came running, shouted at me to lend my hand. I refused, as I was afraid that the fellow trekker in the process of pulling me would himself slip into the valley. Keeping faith I lent my hand, and was safely pulled up. I was ecstatic with joy and relief. I realized that helper was God sent Angel. This faith kept me in high spirits during the entire trek. Though, the trek was still strenuous as walking was tough in wet terrains, and I tripped at lots of places.

Somehow, I crossed the uneven narrow terrains and streams. It was a long trek, not coming to an end. I saw a tent; I sighed with relief, however, it was our lunch point. We had a sumptuous lunch. While crossing another stream with difficulty, I contemplated that my life is precious and I cannot risk it. The trek guide advised me to leave from Behali Camp to Seobagh base camp, and informed me that I could do so. After reaching the Behali Camp, located near Malana River (a small river made from melting glacier), five kilometers away from camp, I confessed my thoughts about quitting the trekking expedition. Here, the camp leader came as a great savior and motivated me to complete this trek. He asked me about my fitness. I was perfectly fit, however, a little dreaded due to the unforeseen events which took place during the day trek.  Inspired by his and fellow co-trekker experiences, I decided to continue the trek.

The camp leader introduced us to nearby surroundings, Dhauladhar Ranges, Pin Parvati ranges, Parvati River flowing at the back of Pir Parvati Range, the Malana River. He alerted us not to touch the water as it was freezing cold. The ladies had to go through a dangerous trek in order to reach toilets. The toilets were facing Malana River, and mountains. Any mistake could be fatal. So we had to be extra cautious.

A frozen stream melting at different points. Photo Courtsey: Nisant Manepalli

Behali Camp Site besides the Malana River

 

For part 3, click here: Part 3

 

For part 1, click here: Part 1

For part 4, click here: Part 4

For part 5, click here: Part 5

Chanderkhani Pass Trekking Expedition (Part 1)

Day 1: Reporting at Seobagh Base Camp, Kullu

 

Seobagh Base Camp is located at the banks of River Beas.

 

After reaching Seobagh Base Camp, my first meet was with a YHAI volunteer, who welcomed me with a smile. After the registration, I was asked to go to Tent 3. I was welcomed by the Field Director, and had dinner.

Accommodation: Tents

Weather: Pleasant

Electricity: available 24 hours at base camp.

Mobile Charging: Yes. The YHAI has made a mobile charging hub and this is the most active area at the camp, as people keep hovering around this location.

Coverage: All networks are available at the base camp.

Food: Vegetarian and nutritious

 

Day 2: Acclimatization walk and Orientation

 

Next morning, we were instructed to wake up at 0500 hours in morning and queued. It was expected that trekker should wake up and be ready for acclimatization walk. We had a walk besides the banks of river Beas and then exercised for an hour, after which that we had breakfast. We had a call from our Co-Director for acclimatization walk. We were instructed to carry a rucksack filled with the blankets to get a feel of trekking along with weight. Acclimatization walk is through a nearby hill, where one can see homes of localities and their spinning skills. At the resting point, we had a brief introductory round.

A view of meandering Beas river and Kullu town from the acclimatization route

Subsequently we trekked to a nearby waterfall. While coming back, we came across lots of apple orchards, loaded with small ripe apples.

Waterfall during the acclimitization

Day 3: Rock Rappelling and Rock Climbing

 

After breakfast, we were taken to experience rock rappelling. The route to the destination where rock rappelling had to be done was very tricky and a narrow trail. (I think it was acclimatizing us as next few days are going to be tougher). The saying goes, “When the going gets tough, the tough get going.” It’s all about techniques. The instructor discussed various types of knots and mountain climbing techniques. The instructors were very motivating and helping.

Post lunch at base camp, we were taken back to the same destination where we were instructed about rock climbing. Now, while everyone had their apprised rock rappelling while few attempted rock climbing as it was more tricky and technical.

After coming back, we the trekkers were directed to deposit our extra luggage to the store rooms. Keep the luggage as light as possible in order to enjoy the beauty of Mother Nature and trekking.

After which few engaged themselves in playing volley ball and keeping an eagle eye to keep their electronic gadgets fully charged as there would be absence of electricity at the higher camp sites.

 

For part 2, click here: Part 2

 

For part 3, click here: Part 3

For part 4, click here: Part 4

For part 5, click here: Part 5